Okay, let me just get this out of the way – why did I wait so long to make the Kielo Wrap Dress by Named Clothing?? It’s been on my to make list for what seems like forever, but I was always a bit intimidated by figuring out the sizing, due to the whole stretch vs woven aspect.
In the end I decided to follow the recommended fabric suggestions and ordered some pretty coral coloured stretch chiffon, since I really liked the light, slightly sheer version shown in their product photographs. When the fabric arrived, however, it had much less than the recommended 20% stretch, so I found myself slightly stumped. My measurements put me in the size 36 realm, so in the end I decided to make the 38 and hope that it would all work out okay.
And it did. Kind of.
The sizing was pretty good, but I ended up with some puckering along the centre back seam which I didn’t particularly love. I still don’t have an overlocker, so I did what I usually do when I can’t use a french seam, which is use one of the overcast stitches on my regular machine. Unfortunately being such a sheer fabric, my chiffon didn’t really love this approach, and when I then went to sew the centre back seam, it came out looking quite puckered.
I did go ahead to assemble the rest of the dress to check the fit, but to be honest I didn’t feel like going to the trouble of finishing the neck and armholes if I wasn’t going to wear it. So at that point I decided to just call it a muslin and shelved it. Maybe one day I’ll get it out and finish it up, maybe not. We’ll see.
So it was time for plan B! I rifled through my stash and came up with a grey linen I got in Jakarta. Linen and I are much better friends, so I had high hopes for version 2.
Based on my experience with the chiffon, I decided to cut the same size (38) in the linen. Since the chiffon really didn’t have a lot of stretch in it I thought it was a pretty safe bet. In addition I moved the points of the darts away further away from the apex by 1/2″, and raised the top of the rear vent by 5″ so I could actually walk properly in my woven dress. I also decided to err on the side of caution and left the top of the centre back seam open, just in case I had trouble getting the neck hole over my head!
In the end I needn’t have worried, as there’s enough room in the neckline, but I decided to keep the slit in the top of the seam, just for an added feature, rather than close it up.
Once I actually wore the dress, however, I started to see the error of my ways. As you can see in this photo of the back of the dress, the back neckline gapes a little, which means that my hook and eye are CONSTANTLY coming undone.
In addition, that upper slit in the back seems to just end up looking a little gapey and sloppy, so overall I’m just not feeling it and I’ll be closing it up as soon as I can! (As well as considering if I need to make any pattern changes to the upper back for future versions)
To finish the neck and armholes I used some cotton lawn bias tape made from scraps left over from my most recent Kalle Shirt.
It really was a quick and satisfying make, and I think the dress ends up with a lot of interest and drama about it. I’m looking forward to giving it some wear while the weather is still hot! I know it’s kind of a statement dress, but I definitely think I want to make more, maybe in some kind of fun print. And maybe a nice cozy version with sleeves in a merino jersey for winter! Ooh!
Oh, also this counts as the first item checked off my 2018 make nine! Yay!
Pattern: Kielo Wrap Dress by Named Clothing
Fabric: Grey linen from my local textile market in Jakarta last year.
Notions: Bias tape home made from cotton lawn scraps, hook and eye.
Cost: $20 (pattern) + $16 (fabric) = AUD$36.