My first finish for 2019! It’s taken until nearly the end of January, but that’s alright. It’s been a chaotic few weeks with moving into our new house right before Christmas. There was a LOT of cleaning and unpacking and sorting and organising to be done! In this house I’m lucky enough to have an entire room dedicated to my creative pursuits, and I wanted to take the time to really get it properly unpacked before I started diving into new projects. In the end I just couldn’t wait any longer, so there’s definitely still more work needed before it’s all looking the way I want it, but in the meantime it’s perfectly functional, and such a luxury!
I’ve had the Hinterland Dress printed out for several months now, but it ended up getting bumped out of my queue by the Lisa dresses I made last year. They’re definitely not the same dress, but they’re similar enough that I needed to put that style of garment aside for a little while.
But I’ve been dreaming of a white linen Hinterland ever since I saw Andrea at Seasons + Salt wearing her white stripe linen Pyne & Smith dress months and months ago. I still had a couple of metres left out of the 5m of white linen I bought at Pasar Mayestik before we left Jakarta in 2017 and I decided the time was finally right.
I used some wooden buttons that have been in my stash for years. I bought a whole bunch of them back when we were still living in New York, and even after using them on several garments since, I still have a bunch left.
Making this dress was a bit of a comedy of errors. It can only have been a few weeks, but it honestly felt like SO LONG since I had sewn anything that I kept making the silliest mistakes!
I cut a straight size 4 based on my measurements. Then I did the obligatory google search and found a few people suggesting that they would have liked to go down a size from their measurements! I was suddenly plagued with doubt about whether I was cutting the right size. I toyed briefly with muslining the bodice, but I really wasn’t in the mood to do that, or to reprint the PDF, so in the end I decided to just plough on with the size 4. The only change I made was to add the waist ties back in (originally I wasn’t going to include them), so that if it did come out too big I could at least tame it a little with the ties.
In all my confusion about sizing, and my haste to actually SEW SOMETHING after weeks and weeks of cleaning and unpacking, I then totally forgot to make my usual adjustment to the bodice. I always add in an inch to the length of any bodice I make before I do anything. I don’t feel like my torso is particularly long, but my experience with sewing patterns tells me different!
The dress itself is a simple, straightforward sew. I made it more complicated by making silly mistakes at every turn, but that’s entirely user error! Mistakes include, but are certainly not limited to, sewing through a button and scorching the front placket with my iron! I’ve never scorched anything in my life! I was sorely tempted to just leave it (it wasn’t too bad when viewed from a distance), but the fabric being white and the scorch marks being on the outer buttonhole placket, it was VERY easy to see when I put it on and looked down the front of the dress. I knew it would ruin the dress for me, so I sucked it up and got out the seam ripper. Luckily I had plenty of linen left to cut a new placket piece.
If you look very hard, maybe you can see the slight golden tinge to the placket next to the buttonhole up there. Trust me, it’s a lot more obvious in person!
Despite all the problems along the way, I absolutely love how this dress turned out. The size 4 ended up being perfect for me. The neckline and armholes are spot on, and even the bust darts are in the right place! (This NEVER happens for me). Next time I’ll extend the tip of the bust darts by about 1/2″, but it’s a minor issue.
I’ll also remember to lengthen my bodice pieces before I cut any more versions of this dress! (spoiler alert: I already adjusted the pattern pieces, because I want to make another one right away!) The waistline of this dress is pretty far above my natural waistline and so it feels perilously close to empire waistline territory when I’m wearing it, but I know that outwardly it doesn’t look that way. The waist ties nip the waist in ever so slightly and keep it from reading ‘maternity’.